Is a Master Brake Cylinder Easy to Change
Here's a common misconception about classic cars: it's old, so it's got awful brakes.
While a 40-year old car usually won't brake as well as a 2016 model, if you're having a difficult time stopping—for example, you need to pump the pedal first—it's because there is a problem with the calipers and/or the wheel cylinders, depending on the make and model, or with the master cylinder.
In simple terms, the master cylinder distributes brake fluid to all four wheels when the brake pedal is pressed. A common symptom of master cylinder failure is a brake pedal that slowly sinks to the ground when pressure is applied to it. Luckily, a master cylinder isn't particularly expensive—a brand new one is listed at $65 on eBay. In addition, installing a new one can be tackled in a couple of hours by the average DIY mechanic.
On a Volkswagen Beetle, the master cylinder is accessed by removing the driver's side front wheel and crawling under the car.
On most cars, the master cylinder is bolted to the brake booster on the firewall so it can be accessed by simply popping the hood. On a Volkswagen Beetle, the pedals are floor-hinged so you need to slide under the car to access it.
First Things First
Raise the car and securely place it on jack stands (find a pair for $40 here on eBay or consider an affordable garage lift). Then remove the driver's side front wheel. After draining the brake fluid from the reservoir, disconnect the electrical connections to the stop light switches on the master cylinder, use an 11-millimeter wrench to loosen the brake line fittings, and carefully remove the lines without bending them. Brake fluid damages paint, so use a rag to immediately clean up any leaking fluid.
On a Super Beetle, the brake fluid reservoir feeds the master cylinder via two metal lines that are each fitted with rubber hoses on either end. The hoses crack with age, so unless they were changed recently we suggest you replace them at the same time as the master cylinder. It's not necessary, but it will give you additional peace of mind.
The two 13-millimeter bolts that hold the master cylinder are hidden behind the pedal assembly.
With the brake lines, the electrical connections, and the hoses out of the way, you're ready to remove the master cylinder. Crawl inside the car, gently lift up the carpet behind the pedals, and you'll see a pair of 13-millimeter bolts. Once you've removed the bolts, you can crawl back under the car and yank out the master cylinder. Have a rag handy because the fluid trapped in the cylinder will leak as soon as you move it.
Remember the brake light switches? Remove them with a 22-millimeter wrench now that the master cylinder is out. You can re-use the switches if they're not too rusty or replace them—new ones are relatively affordable.
Remove the brake light switches once the master cylinder is out. You can re-use them if they're not too rusty, or fit new ones.
Starting Anew
Tighten the brake line fittings a few turns before you install the new master cylinder. You can save time by asking a friend to hold the master cylinder in place while you tighten the 13-millimeter bolts inside the car. Once it's mounted, tighten the brake line fittings all the way, and reconnect the rubber hoses as well as the connections for the brake light switches.
Rubber hoses crack over time, which increases the risk of air entering the brake system. We recommend you replace them when you change the master cylinder.
Finally, top up the reservoir with new brake fluid and ask a friend to help you bleed the brakes. Be sure to place a small piece of wood behind the pedal to prevent it from traveling too far. Once the air has been completely flushed out of the system, lower the car, take it for a test drive to make sure it stops the way it was designed to, and crack open a well-deserved beverage for you and your helper.
Source: https://www.ebay.com/motors/blog/easy-steps-how-to-replace-a-master-cylinder/
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